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FWD201 Model walks the runway at the Dior Homme show during Men Fall 2012 Fashion …
A strong point of view, while only one of many reasons why a runway show can be judged, is nonetheless an absolute necessity for making any significant fashion statement which is why the Dior Homme fall 2012 collection was such a pleasure to see, such a fresh statement about style and design.
Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche's vision for fall was entirely military in its well-spring - from Desert Storm capes and border guards parkas to officers mesh jackets and naval slickers. The entire first half was in khaki green, most models wore corporal's caps, and the whole cast marched out parade ground style five abreast at the finale. Yet nothing in this highly polished performance was in anyway literal. Van Assche might have riffed on regimental references, but the result was a very classy take on modern sportswear.
"I'd been concentrating so much on tailoring for the past few seasons that I wanted to return sportswear, yet still exposing the quality of the clothes at the same time," Van Assche said backstage after the show, staged in a large indoor tennis complex re-imagined as an elegant minimalist neo-classical villa.
Take the great inside-out parkas, where the exact fit and finish was artfully revealed, or the padded ranger jackets with sheepskin panels which had such poised punch. In a season of military shapes, toughed bonded fabrics and storm troopers shapes, this was by far the freshest interpretation of this trend.
Yet the defining moment was a series of camouflage looks, which turned out be abstract images of birds skillfully embroidered on to a quartet of coats. Romantic, sure to be the must-see look to photograph in major magazines and just plain cool.
Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche's vision for fall was entirely military in its well-spring - from Desert Storm capes and border guards parkas to officers mesh jackets and naval slickers. The entire first half was in khaki green, most models wore corporal's caps, and the whole cast marched out parade ground style five abreast at the finale. Yet nothing in this highly polished performance was in anyway literal. Van Assche might have riffed on regimental references, but the result was a very classy take on modern sportswear.
"I'd been concentrating so much on tailoring for the past few seasons that I wanted to return sportswear, yet still exposing the quality of the clothes at the same time," Van Assche said backstage after the show, staged in a large indoor tennis complex re-imagined as an elegant minimalist neo-classical villa.
Take the great inside-out parkas, where the exact fit and finish was artfully revealed, or the padded ranger jackets with sheepskin panels which had such poised punch. In a season of military shapes, toughed bonded fabrics and storm troopers shapes, this was by far the freshest interpretation of this trend.
Yet the defining moment was a series of camouflage looks, which turned out be abstract images of birds skillfully embroidered on to a quartet of coats. Romantic, sure to be the must-see look to photograph in major magazines and just plain cool.